The house looks perfect in photos. Fresh paint, staged furniture, soft lighting. Then you visit and notice: musty smell in the basement, soft spots in the floor, water stains on the ceiling.
Home tours are your chance to spot problems before making an offer. You're not a professional inspector, but you can identify red flags that warrant further investigation. Some issues are deal-breakers. Others are negotiation points. All are better discovered before you're in contract.
In this article, you'll learn:
- What to bring on home tours (tools and checklist)
- How to check foundation, roof, and structure (what you can see)
- Signs of water damage and moisture problems
- Electrical and plumbing red flags
- HVAC age and condition indicators
- When to recommend specialist inspections
- How to document issues with photos
This article is for you if: You're touring homes and want to identify problems that buyers can observe without professional equipment.
Important: This guide covers what YOU can check during a tour. Always get a professional home inspection before closing. Inspectors have tools, training, and experience you don't have.
What to Bring on Tours
Essential Tools
Flashlight:
- Check dark areas (crawlspace, attic, closets)
- Look under sinks
- Inspect electrical panels
- Cost: $10-20
Outlet tester:
- Tests for proper wiring
- Identifies reversed polarity, missing ground
- Plug into every room
- Cost: $10-15 (hardware store)
Marble or small ball:
- Roll on floors to check for slopes
- Indicates foundation issues
- Bring 2-3
- Cost: $1
Tape measure:
- Verify room sizes
- Check if furniture fits
- Measure parking space
- Cost: $5-10
Phone camera:
- Document everything
- Take photos of issues
- Record video walkthrough
- Reference later
Notepad or phone notes:
- Write observations
- Note questions for agent
- Track which house had which issue
- Compare homes later
Optional But Helpful
Moisture meter:
- Detects moisture in walls
- Useful in Seattle (rain, moisture issues)
- Cost: $30-50
Binoculars:
- Check roof condition from ground
- See chimney, gutters, siding up high
- Cost: $20-50
Level:
- Check if floors are level
- Verify countertops, shelves
- Cost: $10-20
Foundation and Structure
What You Can Check
Exterior foundation:
- Walk around entire house
- Look at foundation where visible
- Check for cracks, settling, water damage
Cracks to worry about:
- Horizontal cracks (serious - indicates pressure)
- Stair-step cracks in brick/block (settling)
- Cracks wider than 1/4 inch
- Cracks that are growing (check for fresh concrete patches)
Cracks that are usually okay:
- Hairline vertical cracks (common, cosmetic)
- Small cracks in concrete (normal settling)
- Cracks that have been professionally repaired
Seattle-specific:
- Check for moisture at foundation base
- Look for moss or algae (indicates water)
- Check drainage away from house
Foundation Red Flags
Separation from house:
- Gap between foundation and siding
- Indicates serious settling
- Expensive to repair ($10,000-$50,000+)
Bowing or bulging:
- Foundation wall curves inward or outward
- Indicates soil pressure or water damage
- Requires structural engineer
Water stains:
- White chalky deposits (efflorescence)
- Dark stains at base
- Indicates water intrusion
- Check basement/crawlspace for flooding
Uneven floors inside:
- Roll marble - does it roll to one side?
- Doors that don't close properly
- Cracks in drywall above doors/windows
- Indicates foundation settling
What to do if you find issues:
- Take photos
- Measure crack width
- Ask seller about history
- Recommend structural engineer inspection ($500-$1,000)
Roof and Exterior
What You Can See from Ground
Roof condition:
- Use binoculars or zoom on phone
- Look for: missing shingles, curling, moss, sagging
Age indicators:
- Curling shingles = old (20+ years)
- Lots of moss = moisture, poor drainage
- Patchy colors = repairs done
- Sagging = structural problem
Seattle roofs:
- Composition shingles: 20-30 year life
- Cedar shake: 25-35 years (less common now)
- Metal: 40-50 years
- Moss is common (not always a problem, but needs treatment)
Gutters and downspouts:
- Sagging or pulling away from house
- Rust or holes
- Missing sections
- Not directing water away from foundation
Siding:
- Cracks, holes, rot
- Paint peeling or bubbling
- Warping or buckling
- Water stains
Windows:
- Condensation between panes (seal failure)
- Rot around frames
- Difficult to open/close
- Single-pane (old, inefficient)
Exterior Red Flags
Sagging roof:
- Visible dip or sag in roofline
- Indicates structural problem
- Expensive repair ($5,000-$20,000+)
Chimney issues:
- Leaning or separating from house
- Missing mortar between bricks
- Cracks in chimney
- No cap (allows water, animals in)
Wood rot:
- Soft, spongy wood
- Discoloration
- Common areas: window sills, door frames, deck posts
- Test with screwdriver (shouldn't sink in)
Poor drainage:
- Water pooling near foundation
- Downspouts dumping water at foundation
- Soil sloping toward house (should slope away)
- Indicates potential basement/crawlspace flooding
Interior: Water Damage and Moisture
Where to Look
Ceilings:
- Water stains (brown, yellow, or dark spots)
- Sagging or bubbling
- Indicates roof leak or plumbing issue above
Walls:
- Stains, especially near windows or corners
- Bubbling or peeling paint
- Soft spots (press gently)
- Indicates water intrusion
Floors:
- Soft spots (indicates rot underneath)
- Warping or buckling (water damage)
- Stains on carpet or hardwood
- Musty smell
Windows:
- Condensation between panes
- Water stains on sills or walls below
- Rot in wood frames
- Mold around edges
Bathrooms:
- Soft floor around toilet (rot from leak)
- Loose tiles (water damage underneath)
- Mold on ceiling or walls
- Caulk missing or moldy
Kitchen:
- Water stains under sink
- Soft cabinet bottoms
- Mold smell
- Dishwasher leaks (check floor in front)
Moisture Red Flags
Musty smell:
- Indicates mold or mildew
- Common in basements, crawlspaces
- Can be expensive to remediate ($2,000-$10,000+)
Visible mold:
- Black, green, or white spots
- Common in bathrooms, basements
- Small amounts okay (clean with bleach)
- Large areas require professional remediation
Condensation:
- Windows fog up inside
- Indicates poor ventilation or insulation
- Can lead to mold
Efflorescence:
- White, chalky deposits on concrete
- Indicates water seeping through
- Common in basements
Seattle-specific moisture issues:
- Crawlspace moisture (very common)
- Window condensation (poor ventilation)
- Moss on north-facing exterior
- Basement seepage (check after heavy rain)
What to Do
Minor moisture:
- Note for inspection
- Ask about history
- Check if seller has addressed
Major moisture:
- Recommend moisture specialist
- Get estimate for remediation
- Consider walking away if extensive
Electrical System
What You Can Check
Electrical panel:
- Open panel door (don't touch anything inside)
- Look for: rust, burn marks, old fuses vs breakers
- Check capacity: 100 amp minimum, 200 amp better
- Note brand (Federal Pacific and Zinsco are problematic)
Outlets:
- Use outlet tester in every room
- Check for: proper grounding, reversed polarity, open ground
- Count outlets (should be every 12 feet on walls)
- Test GFCI outlets in bathrooms and kitchen (push test button)
Light switches:
- Test every switch
- Check for: loose, sparking, warm to touch
- Note any that don't work
Light fixtures:
- Turn on all lights
- Check for: flickering, dimming, not working
- Look for old knob-and-tube wiring (visible in attic/basement)
Electrical Red Flags
Two-prong outlets:
- Indicates old wiring (pre-1960s)
- No ground wire (safety issue)
- Updating costs $2,000-$5,000+
Fuses instead of breakers:
- Very old system (pre-1960s)
- Should be upgraded
- Cost: $2,000-$4,000 for panel replacement
Aluminum wiring:
- Used 1960s-1970s
- Fire hazard if not properly maintained
- Look for "AL" on wire insulation
- Remediation: $1,500-$3,000
Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels:
- Known fire hazards
- Should be replaced
- Cost: $2,000-$3,000
Extension cords as permanent wiring:
- Not enough outlets
- Fire hazard
- Indicates inadequate electrical system
Burn marks or rust in panel:
- Indicates overheating or water damage
- Serious safety issue
- Requires electrician evaluation
What to Do
Minor issues (two-prong outlets):
- Get estimate from electrician
- Negotiate repair or credit
Major issues (Federal Pacific panel, aluminum wiring):
- Require immediate replacement
- Get multiple quotes
- Negotiate significant credit or walk away
Plumbing System
What You Can Check
Water pressure:
- Turn on faucets (bathroom, kitchen)
- Flush toilets
- Check shower
- Low pressure indicates: old pipes, leaks, or supply issues
Drainage:
- Run water in all sinks
- Flush all toilets
- Run shower for 2-3 minutes
- Slow drainage indicates: clogs, old pipes, or sewer issues
Under sinks:
- Open cabinets
- Look for: leaks, water stains, rust, mold
- Check pipes for corrosion
Water heater:
- Note age (sticker on unit)
- Check for: rust, leaks, corrosion
- Typical life: 10-15 years
- Replacement cost: $1,200-$2,000
Visible pipes:
- In basement or crawlspace
- Look for: leaks, rust, corrosion, patches
- Note material: copper (good), galvanized steel (old), PEX (modern)
Toilets:
- Check for: wobbling, leaks at base, running constantly
- Flush and watch for proper operation
Plumbing Red Flags
Galvanized steel pipes:
- Used pre-1960s
- Rust from inside, restrict flow
- Should be replaced
- Cost: $4,000-$10,000+ for whole house
Polybutylene pipes:
- Gray plastic pipes, used 1970s-1990s
- Known to fail and leak
- Should be replaced
- Cost: $4,000-$8,000
Low water pressure everywhere:
- Indicates: old pipes, leaks, or supply issue
- Expensive to fix if pipes need replacement
Rust-colored water:
- Indicates corroded pipes
- Needs investigation
- May require pipe replacement
Sewer smell:
- Indicates: dry trap, vent issue, or sewer problem
- Could be simple fix or major issue
- Recommend sewer scope ($300-$500)
Multiple plumbing patches:
- Indicates ongoing problems
- Pipes may be failing
- Consider full replacement
Seattle-Specific Plumbing
Sewer line:
- Older homes (pre-1960s) may have clay pipes
- Tree roots can invade
- Recommend sewer scope inspection ($300-$500)
- Replacement cost: $5,000-$15,000+
Water service line:
- Lead pipes in very old homes (pre-1930s)
- Check with Seattle Public Utilities
- Replacement required if lead
Sump pump:
- Common in basements
- Check for: operation, age, backup system
- Important in Seattle (rain, flooding)
HVAC System
What You Can Check
Furnace age:
- Look for sticker with manufacture date
- Typical life: 15-20 years
- Replacement cost: $3,000-$6,000
Air conditioning:
- If present, check age
- Typical life: 15-20 years
- Replacement cost: $3,000-$8,000
Thermostat:
- Test heating and cooling
- Check if programmable
- Note if system responds
Vents and registers:
- Check airflow from vents
- Look for: dust, mold, damage
- Note rooms with no vents
Ductwork:
- If visible in basement/attic
- Look for: disconnected ducts, holes, poor insulation
HVAC Red Flags
Old system (20+ years):
- Likely needs replacement soon
- Budget for replacement
No air conditioning:
- Common in older Seattle homes
- Adding AC: $3,000-$8,000
- Consider if important to you
Strange noises:
- Banging, squealing, grinding
- Indicates mechanical problems
- May need repair or replacement
Uneven heating/cooling:
- Some rooms hot, others cold
- Indicates: ductwork issues, undersized system, or poor insulation
Rust or corrosion:
- On furnace or AC unit
- Indicates age or moisture problems
- May need replacement
No maintenance records:
- HVAC should be serviced annually
- Lack of maintenance shortens life
Seattle HVAC Considerations
Heat pumps:
- Common in newer homes
- More efficient than furnaces
- Check age and condition
Ductless mini-splits:
- Popular for additions or homes without ducts
- Check number of zones
- Note age of units
Radiant heat:
- Some older homes have boilers
- Check age and condition
- Expensive to replace ($5,000-$10,000+)
No AC:
- Many older Seattle homes lack AC
- Consider if you need it (summers getting hotter)
- Adding AC is expensive
When to Recommend Specialists
Structural Engineer ($500-$1,000)
When to recommend:
- Foundation cracks wider than 1/4 inch
- Sagging roof or floors
- Doors/windows that don't close properly
- Visible settling or movement
- Additions that look unprofessional
Sewer Scope ($300-$500)
When to recommend:
- Home built pre-1980 (clay pipes common)
- Large trees near sewer line
- Slow drains throughout house
- Sewer smell
- Neighbors have had sewer issues
Seattle tip: Highly recommended for any home built before 1980. Tree roots are common problem.
Mold Specialist ($300-$800)
When to recommend:
- Visible mold larger than 10 square feet
- Musty smell throughout house
- History of water damage
- Health concerns
Chimney Inspector ($150-$300)
When to recommend:
- Fireplace or wood stove present
- Chimney looks damaged
- No recent inspection records
- Planning to use fireplace
Roof Inspector ($200-$400)
When to recommend:
- Roof looks old (20+ years)
- Missing or damaged shingles
- Sagging visible
- Water stains on ceiling inside
HVAC Specialist ($100-$200)
When to recommend:
- System over 15 years old
- Strange noises or smells
- Uneven heating/cooling
- No maintenance records
Documenting Issues
Photo Strategy
What to photograph:
- Every room (wide angle)
- Any issues you spot
- Electrical panel
- Water heater (including age sticker)
- Furnace (including age sticker)
- Foundation cracks
- Water stains
- Roof condition (from ground)
How to organize:
- Create folder for each house
- Label photos clearly
- Include address in folder name
- Take photos in logical order (room by room)
Video walkthrough:
- Record 2-3 minute video
- Narrate what you see
- Capture overall feel
- Easy to review later
Note-Taking System
For each house, note:
- Address and listing price
- Overall impression (1-10 scale)
- Major pros (location, layout, condition)
- Major cons (issues, needed repairs)
- Estimated repair costs
- Questions for agent or inspector
Issue tracking:
- List each issue found
- Rate severity (minor, moderate, major)
- Estimate repair cost (research online)
- Note if deal-breaker
Comparison spreadsheet:
- Create spreadsheet with all homes
- Columns: address, price, pros, cons, repair costs, total cost
- Helps compare apples to apples
Summary: Key Takeaways
- Bring tools: flashlight, outlet tester, marble, tape measure, camera
- Check foundation for cracks wider than 1/4 inch, settling, water damage
- Look for water stains, soft spots, musty smells (moisture problems)
- Test all outlets with outlet tester (two-prong outlets indicate old wiring)
- Check plumbing: water pressure, drainage, visible leaks, pipe material
- Note HVAC age (15-20 year life typical)
- Recommend specialists for: foundation issues, sewer scope, mold, old systems
- Document everything with photos and notes
- Remember: you're not an inspector, but you can spot red flags
Next Steps
- Create tour checklist from this guide
- Buy basic tools (flashlight, outlet tester, marble)
- Practice on first few tours to get comfortable
- Take detailed photos and notes for every home
- Research repair costs for issues you find
- Always get professional inspection before closing
Related articles:
- Home Inspection Complete Guide
- Neighborhood Research Guide
- Reading Zillow/Redfin Listings Like a Pro
- Property Type Comparison
Additional Resources
Repair cost estimates:
- HomeAdvisor: homeadvisor.com
- Angi (formerly Angie's List): angi.com
- Local contractor quotes
Seattle-specific:
- Seattle DCI (permits and code): seattle.gov/sdci
- King County property records: kingcounty.gov
- Seattle Public Utilities (water/sewer): seattle.gov/utilities